I didn't get Amber Absolute right away. My first couple of testings made me regard this Tom Ford Private Blend creation as a dumbed down version of Ambre Sultan (Serge Lutens). It lacks the challenging parts: the kitchen herbs from the opening and the chewy feel, but it's still a dark amber with very little (if any) powder involved, and a woody heart. For a while I only used it for layering and enhancing softer scents that could use a darker backbone, and experimented with combining Amer Absolute with other ambers (nothing to write home about).
It was actually the pairing with another Tom Ford Private Blend favorite, Noir de Noir, that allowed me to fully appreciate the beauty of Amber Absolute. Unlike the dazzling pyrotechnics of Ambre Sultan (which I still consider the best in its category), Ford's amber is polished like a smooth stone, but warms up gradually into a resinous incense that makes it glow from within. 
There is no real connection between the amber accord in fragrance and the Baltic stone, but I can't help but think of vintage Lithuanian jewelry made with only half polished amber chunks that were kept in a vintage hand-painted lacquered box (I have a feeling my mother is the only one who knows what I'm talking about here. And maybe those readers who hail from the same part of Europe). It has an Old World beauty without feeling dated or retro in any way, and the sweetness is restrained enough to be utterly wearable by men. As long as they really love amber, that is.
I'm still rocking the roll-on from the 12 mini bottle set of the original dozen Tom Ford scents, but the way I'm going I'll need a full bottle ($180, 1.7 oz at Bergdorf, Neiman Marcus and select Saks and Nordsrom locations) sooner rather than later.
Fashion photo by George Hoyningen-Huene for Harper's Bazaar, 1940. Photo of lacquered Russian box from some eBay auction.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Tom Ford Private Blend- Amber Absolute
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Kate Hudson And Nicole Kidman At American Music Awards

Maybe it's just me, but all I see in this photo of Nicole Kidman and Kate Hudson at the American Music Awards is the wasted potential. The dresses, the hair...
Nicole Kidman used to have the most gorgeous curly red hair in Hollywood, which makes this deflated Barbie look even more unfortunate.
Photo: The Superficial
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YSL Holiday 2009- Eye Shadow Duo 1 (Beige Celeste Brun Astral)




The colors are neutral and very elegant. Beige Celeste is actually more shell than beige and has a cool undertone. The amount of shimmer in both colors makes them an evening-only eye shadows as far I'm concerned. Both must be worn over a primer, because the texture, while fine, is somewhat crumbly, and a primer ensures smooth application. There's also a bit of glittery fallout when used with wide brushes, so I'd suggest using slimmer ones.
YSL Ombre Duolumieres Eye Shadow Duo ($41, Beige Celeste/Brun Astral, is just one option, and there are two new color combinations, including one that looks very much like Nars Habanera with a dark plum and mint green shimmer) can be found at your local Yves Saint Laurent counter at most decent department stores, as well as online. If I remember correctly,I bought mine online from yslbeautyus.com).
YSL Holiday Look 2009 photo from ysl.com, other photos by me.
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Labels: eye shadow, holiday collection 2009, makeup, YSL
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Thoughts about IFRA and skin allergies
Within 2 hours I had an angry looking red rash on both wrists. The same wrists that have been sprayed countless of times with perfumes containing oakmoss, tree moss, balsam peru, jasmine absolute, natural citrus oil, damascone and other now-restricted or banned materials. I never had an allergic reaction to perfume, but the household cleaners made me want to crawl out of my skin.
Yet, there are no restrictions on Clorox and its ilk, no lobby fighting to ban the use of tub and tile detergents and I'm pretty sure even the city of Halifax allows its residents to scrub their kitchens. No well-meaning bureaucrat has decided to make bathrooms safer for people who can't read a label saying "if a rash develops, discontinue use" and take down an entire industry while doing it.
Funny, isn't it?
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Thursday, November 26, 2009
Tom Ford Private Blend- Noir de Noir

Noir de Noir from tom Ford's Private Blend was not a love from first sniff on my part. My first thought was "too rosy, too boozy". I first tested it on a warmish day, when it promptly went sour on my skin, as too many rose scents tend to do. I got the saffron note, but there was nothing dark or mysterious about it, and definitely no "noir", except a resemblance to another black scent I can't wear, Montale Black Aoud.
It was a while before I felt like testing Noir de Noir again, but eventually I got it. While it's as rosy and boozy as ever, on cold days there's no sourness whatsoever, while all the dark notes appear and envelope me in a black velvet cape that is closer to Ford's Black Orchid with its chocolate-earth theme than to a traditional red or pink rose perfume. Compare this broody, secret garden-worthy scent to something sunny and uncomplicated like YSL Parisienne, for example, and it's hard to believe both explore a similar main note.
There's something about Noir de Noir that makes it the ultimate rose scent men can wear. Maybe it's the oud (agarwood) and patchouli combination, maybe it's that earth and stone aspect. In any case, as far as I'm concerned, it's another great beauty in the Tom Ford line, and at least this winter I plan to enjoy it thoroughly.
Noir de Noir and the rest of the Tom Ford Private Blend fragrances ($180, 1.7 oz) are available from top department stores and Tom Ford boutiques. Samples can be purchased online from The Perfumed Court. If you come across the box set of 12 minis, I highly recommend it. That's the one I bought last year and it has allowed me many wearings of each scent.
Photo from outdoors.webshots.com.
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The Moving Chronicles- Part 5

The aftermath.
There's nothing better than the first hot shower in your new house the night after you move. Even if everything is still boxed and you only fish for the basic essentials, it still feels wonderfully indulgent. Not to mention having clean hair (I used the husband's Head & Shoulders with my L'Occitane Shea Butter conditioner and his Vetiver Extraordinaire shower gel. Heaven).
Moving the cats was 8/9 smooth. We started with The Orange Menace at 6 am, before he had a chance to get his attitude. Since it's impossible (and might cost you an eye or two) to stuff him into a normal cat carrier, we used a large (almost wardrobe size) moving box. The Blond dropped him inside with catnip and some food, quickly taped it shut (there were enough holes for breathing) and ran to the car. Two minutes later the beast was releases in the new house, where he sulked and plotted his revenge.
The big problem was Sir Peter Fluffball. He got away and hid under the bed before I had the chance to grab him. We decided to let him be for the time and deal with the other cats first, which worked fine. Peter would still not come out, so we had no choice but wait for the movers to arrive. What happened was that Peter ran out so quickly I was terrified for a moment he escaped outside or to the basement (all doors were open at that point). But he was just under the entertainment center, from which he was eventually removed, grabbed and stuffed into a carrier, to the great amusement of the Moishe's guys. I hated that he was so miserable, but there was nothing much to be done about it.
The cats spent the rest of the day in the basement (we prepared it for them) until the movers, the DirectTV and the Internet guys all finished their work. Gracie and Betty were the first ones to emerge and take the grand tour. As of tonight, most of them have adjusted. Peter is still unhappy and Buffy spends most of her time behind the washer in the basement, but I'm pretty sure they'd come around in a day or two.
I went to sleep last night wearing Diamond Water by JAR, as the two Precious Ones were in my purse (all the other bottles were carefully transported by us and are well). It made me feel like the happiest and luckiest woman in the world.
I had a lot to be grateful about this Thanksgiving, from the new house to my friends and readers. I can't thank you enough for all the comments, emails, texts and Facebook messages. It means the world to me.
Photo of Giselle checking her new surroundings by me.
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Happy Thanksgiving!
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Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Tom Ford Private Blend- Oud Wood
I'm not a big Montale fan, because too many of their ouds are lost to me in a sour rose. Tom Ford's creamier interpretation is a better match for my skin, and I admit to fantasize about a full line of Oud Wood body products. Sliding into a hot bath scented with an Oud Wood oil would have been heavenly, though it might just be my weariness speaking. In any case, there's something very satisfying in Oud Wood's drydown, which has far less to do with the actual oud note and a lot more with a somewhat sweetened wood-tonka bean blend.
Oud Wood is generally considered a masculine fragrance, as are many oud scents. The sharpness is, indeed, the opposite of what's normally accepted as feminine. Not that I've ever let these ideas stop me from wearing a perfume. However, to my nose, this is such a mellow and friendly oud that I'd recommend it to any woman trying to figure out her relationship with this note. It's a good introductory oud before one moves on to try the truly magnificent ones, like By Killian's Pure Oud.
Oud Wood and the rest of the Tom Ford Private Blend perfumes ($180, 1.7 oz) are available from Bergdorf, Neiman Marcus, some Nordstrom locations and Saks NYC store, as well as from Tom Ford boutiques. I bought the limited edition box set of the original 12 scents in mini roll-on bottles.
Photo of agarwood (oud) trees from somewhere on the 'net. I forgot to save the source.
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Tuesday, November 24, 2009
The Moving Chronicles- Part 5
One day till moving. We're in the homestretch, and you know it's bad if I'm using the word "homestretch" or any sports reference. All that's left to pack are half the books and all the little odds and ends that are driving me crazy.
Tackling mountains of stuff is a difficult experience. It's very different than previous moves when we were in our early, mid and late twenties. I've been trying to tell myself that it's perfectly normal- we're pushing forty, of course we've accumulated all these things, from books to kitchen equipment. And clothes. And shoes. But there's always some guilt attached to your worldly possessions. Mostly, because they are, well, so worldly, and one can't avoid thinking of all the places and people whose problems go far beyond the proper way to transport a Kitchen Aid mixer.
Trying to stay calm. It's important not to make yourself feel worse, so I've been just as meticulous about my skin care routine. Last night was the closest I've been in twenty years to fall asleep with my makeup on. But I could hear my mother's voice in my head, informing me I'd get zits if I don't wash up right away. So I did it, scrubbed and slathered. My back still ached when I woke up this morning, but my skin looked fabulous.
Photo by me, of course. Kosh, the orange menace and Lizzy marveling at an empty closet.
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Paul & Joe Fall Collection At Bergdorf Goodman






I really should finish packing, but this little PSA really can't wait, because only a handful of items from Paul & Joe's Fall 2009 limited edition collection with the gorgeous cats are still available at Bergdorf Goodman. I know some people are still searching and it's nearly impossible to find online (unless you want them shipped from England), so it's worth your time to give them a call and order what's left. I also found the cutest matching nail file, as you can see in the picture.
When I first saw the stock photos on the various websites, I thought the colors were not for me. The lipstick looked too light and the eye shadows looked glittery. As you can see, that's definitely not the case. I tested everything in store and loved both. The lipstick is a great everyday color and the eye shadows are blendable, satiny and smooth. I didn't swatch them because everything is packed (and already in the new house), but I hope the closeups here give a good idea of the actual colors.
Beauty Habit also carries Paul & Joe, and last I looked, the eye shadows were still in stock.
All photos by me.
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Labels: fall 2009, limited edition, makeup, Paul and Joe
Le Metier de Beaute Classic Flawless Finish Compact Powder



I had every intention to buy a Chanel finishing powder. After replacing my foundation with a lighter shade of my favorite Vitalumier, I realized that I was also in a dire need of a lighter face powder, and since I love Chanel's face products, that was the counter I approached at my local Neiman Marcus. The problem was customer service. The Chanel SA was not around, and the young woman who desperately tried to deal with seven customers at once was not only frazzled but also clueless and tried to convince me that Chanel doesn't carry pressed powder, despite the obvious proof in the form of testers.
I shrugged at moved over to the Le Metier de Beaute counter, where I found a true love (and excellent service).
Classic Flawless Finish Compact Powder is, indeed, flawless. Light in texture and finely milled, it gives the right amount of support to whatever else I've got on my face, creating a very smooth surface. My face doesn't look powdered or covered with paint, just "finished". It holds everything else in place, blends well with my foundation and blush and simply looks beautiful. There's a sponge/puff thing inside the compact, but I rarely use it (it gives more coverage when stippled). A good powder brush swirled lightly does the work perfectly.
My color out of the eight ones available is No. 2., which is translucent with a hint of yellow.
Le Metier de Beaute Classic Flawless Finish Compact Powder ($48) is available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.
Photos by me.
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11:53 AM
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Labels: Le Metier de Beaute, makeup, powder
Monday, November 23, 2009
Stoned- Solange Azagury-Partridge
Now, if you like all of the above and can ignore the price tag and the gimmicky use of diamond dust in perfume (why? who needs that?), there's a good chance you'd find true love. I sure did.
Stoned is a beautiful creation. It starts with powdery rose-violet blast and moves into a smooth vanilla musk with a wild labdanum touch that I personally adore and find very sexy. Applied lightly, it's a sweet skin musk for an intimate moment. Sprayed lavishly and it's the equivalent of that dress you'd wear for your third date (as long as you've verified your beau is not a fan of the Eau d'Issey school of perfumery).
Bottom line: Must like powder.
Stoned by Solange Azagury-Partridge ($285, 100ml) is available from Luckyscent and BeautyHabit. I bought a decant from The Perfumed Court.
Image of a Solange Azagury-Partridge ring from Jezeerpar on Photobucket.
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The Moving Chronicles- Part 4
I had to cut my nails short as they started breaking and splitting the second the word "boxes" was heard around here. I filed them as neatly as possible and applied a coat of something clear and glossy (OPI Start to Finish, if I remember correctly) and a second coat of something random I found while packing, just because. I also left out three different creams (L'Occitane, Shielding Lotion and my trusty Chanel, for anti-aging action), so I there's a tube wherever I turn. It's important.
My aching feet (eventually I'll learn not to run around in high heels at times like these) are being treated with Bliss Foot Patrol and my secret weapon: Vicks Vapor Rub. I'm serious. This stuff works wonders on all kind of foot issues and smooths even the roughest patches. Glamorous, I know.
Photo by me, with the help of Lizzy.
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Kanebo Sensai Deep Moist Shine Rouge (MS 111 Usuhanasakura)


Out of several Kanebo Sensai lipsticks I've been testing lately, this Deep Moist Shine in MS 111 Usuhanasakura should have been my least favorite, because the color is much too pale for me to wear- this type of shimmery pink is about two tones lighter than my natural lip color, so worn on its own it looks chalky and weird, even though it's semi-sheer. However, I find myself reaching for this Deep Moist wonder quite often and wear it on top of many of my super diva dark purples and plums to make them more approachable for day or casual evenings.
The wonderful texture of Deep Moist Shine adds a balmy feel to any lip color I'm wearing under it, and the glossy shine is surprisingly sleek and wearable. I'm still discovering pretty options and combinations, which is a lot of fun for anyone who likes to mix and match colors. Of course, if you're pale, this tender pink would probably work beautifully on its own.
Kanebo Sensai products are available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, but I couldn't find the Deep Moist Shine Rouge on their websites. However, ecosmeticworld.com sells these lipsticks ($40) online. I received a press sample directly from the company's PR.
All photos by me.
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11:51 AM
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Labels: Kanebo Sensai, lipstick, makeup
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Il Profumo- Encens Epice
The incense part of Encens Epice is not the main show. It's more about resin, acorns and conifers that are revealed after a spicy opening. Sometimes I think I'm getting some cumin, but not enough to create the dreaded chicken tikka effect. There's a lot of coriander there, freshly crushed, and maybe also a hint of warm cardamom paving the way for patchouli- raw, live one, not the head shop oil.
Encens Epice is probably what I wanted Serge Noire to be instead of the cumin horror it turned out. It's a dry, spicy scent, which smells like a woody landscape, even if it can be a bit gamey at times. It would probably appeal to more men than women, but anyone who likes cypress, spice and dry resins should give it a try.
Encens Epice ($125, 100 ml) and the rest of the Il Profumo line are available from Luckyscent, where I bought my first sample. I purchased a decant from The Perfumed Court.
Photo of a Mendocino Cypress from cnps.org
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10:21 PM
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The Moving Chronicles- Part 3
One of you asked about moving the cats, which is, indeed, the biggest issue. The last time we moved we "only" had five cats, but the move itself was a lot more serious and included three nights at a hotel. Yes, with the cats. Fun times. We hope for minimal drama, but still, it's not going to be smooth, considering a couple of the creatures are prone to freakouts. We're going to start with the two most problematic ones early in the morning, get them into their carriers and quickly to the cars. A two minute drive straight into the garage in the new house, close its door and open the access to the basement (where the cats will stay until the movers are done).
Got Xanax?
I packed the perfume collection yesterday. It took forever and enough bubble wrap to cover a village. Kept a few items out for wearing and reviewing, but that's all. Today was harder. I tackled the bedroom and the bathroom while my fearless husband dealt with the kitchen, including the worst of the drawers and cabinets known as "bane of our existence" and "pit of despair". I packed away almost all the cosmetics and personal care items. Last week I said I have enough stuff for a mini-Sephora. I was wrong. It's enough for the biggest store they have. And then some. I wasn't really horrified, because at least I didn't have any "what's that and why do I own it?" moments, but the process was still daunting. My bathroom is now amazingly bare. Only a handful of bottles and jars are left. Is that how normal people live?
Thinking of unpacking and organizing is just as overwhelming, but new cabinets and dressers were purchased, including some very neat storage solutions. Alex cabinets from Ikea. Only moderately ugly, but they have these shallow drawers that are perfect for cosmetics, I'm actually almost excited about putting everything away and having a place for everything. Maybe I'll manage to organize my lipsticks by color!
The perfumes are packed in sturdy plastic bins, small enough that we can fit in our cars and move them ourselves (though probably too heavy for me to carry alone). A couple of bottles will go in my purse, so I can keep a close eye on them. Hopefully, I did a good enough job to avoid any damage. The two new perfume cabinets are waiting in the new house. Hopefully they are large enough.
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5:07 PM
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Friday, November 20, 2009
Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte (Luscious Pink/Rose Savoureux 23)





I blame the YSL newsletter. It had a photo of their four nude colors for the wonderful Rouge Volupte lipstick that actually acknowledge that "nude" can be various shades and giving us options, instead of one generic beige that rarely looks good. Since their Exquisite Plum is among my favorite high drama evening colors, I was very happy to find an everyday, easy to wear neutral color that goes with almost any eye makeup and outfit.
Rouge Volupte in Luscious Pink is now my constant companion, together with my wallet, phone, sunglasses and car keys. I need it with me. The color is a warmer pink version of my natural lip color, and it lights up the face. It's not too pink, not too warm, just perfect for a happy, healthy, effortless look. This lipstick has all the great qualities of the Rouge Volupte line: creaminess, rich pigment, great coverage, superb lasting power and the feel of a lip balm.
Bottom line: Big, big love.
YSL Rouge Volupte lipstick ($34) is available from most decent department stores, Sephora and yslbeautyus.com (or the matching company site for your country).
All photos by me except the top one, which came from the YSL newsletter.
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Thursday, November 19, 2009
Jean Patou- Lasso



There's very little information available about Lasso, an old and long-forgotten perfume from the house of Patou. It's not even clear when exactly it was launched. Some online sources are dating it as a 1936 release, the year Jean Patou died. But I've also seen various mentions of 1956 and 1957, which seems to be supported by ads from the late 1950s, stating Lasso was a new perfume.
One thing is for sure: Lasso was created with one thing it mind. Seduction.
The English version of these ads call Lasso "Your secret weapon", which is quite appropriate for this beautiful leather chypre. I could not find a list of notes, but some things are quite apparent. Lasso was not a Bandit clone. If anything, it's more closely related to Mitsouko, as before the more leathery drydown there's a rich fruity heart which smells more than a little peachy. It's a little powdery and I wouldn't be surprised to find out there's some heliotrope in there. The combination feels very round and smooth, no jagged edges and spiky heels. More like a velvet evening gown and matching satin shoes, but with more than a hint of tasteful cleavage, an elegant updo and heirloom jewelry. Lasso is well-bread but promises a little naughtiness if you linger close enough.
Just as it is unclear when Lasso was launched, I can't find any information on what year Patou has discontinued it. Bottles pop up here and there on eBay, and I've noticed they come in several shapes, and that there must have been both an EDT and a parfum extrait. As you can see, my own bottle looks different than the one illustrated in the ad. I have a couple of other vintage Patou perfumes in a similar bottle, but they are from different years, so it doesn't help to solve the mystery.
Lasso ad from Joan Thewelis on Flickr, bottle photo by me, handsome model: Peter.
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Fresh Brown Sugar Body Cream
Kristen, The Beauty Addict, has already touched on the silliness of naming a product Brown Sugar while making it smell of lemon. The very synthetic citrus has nothing of the dark molasses-like aroma you'd expect from the name, and there's nothing rich or comforting in the cream's texture or performance. Maybe someone whose skin is dry and doesn't require deep nourishment from body creams would find it acceptable, but I don't. I kept testing the Brown Sugar cream under several circumstances (day, night, exposed skin, covered skin, cold day and balmy weather), but the result was always the same: within an hour of application I had to reach for another cream or lotion, because my skin was showing signs of dryness.
Bottom line: No.
Fresh Brown Sugar Body Cream ($35, 6.8 oz) is available from Sephora and Fresh boutiques. As I said above, the 1oz tube I have was a GWP.
Image: ehow.com
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3:35 PM
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Labels: bath and body, body cream, Fresh, Sephora
Laura Geller Eye Rimz (Potion)


Used dry, Potion Eye Rimz was more of an inky violet. Wet application brings out the rich purple hues (cool tones). Lasting power is very good, but it flakes a little when used dry and I had to do several clean ups to keep my face from turning purple, so I can't recommend it as a dry shadow.
Bottom line: Only if you're looking for a purple cake eyeliner.
Laura Geller Eye Rimz ($26) is available from Sephora and dermstore.com. I ordered it from the latter.
All photos are mine.
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11:49 AM
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Labels: eye shadow, eyeliner, Laura Geller, makeup
Tom Ford Private Blend- Purple Patchouli
I don't know about patchouli. I don't smell much (if any) of it in Purple Patchouli. But it sure smells purple. While I agree with Dr. Turin about a chypre leaning, it's definitely not green when I wear it. It's sweet, but doesn't cross the line into candied violets, and have I mentioned this perfume is dark? There's certainly an image of a weird and exotic flower, a mutant orchid ensconced in a beautiful leather case. It's elegant, noticeable and feels very feminine, though I'm sure some men can pull it off. For me, it requires a hat and a matching nail polish. This season's Vendetta from Chanel comes to mind.
Purple Patchouli is one of several scents from the Private Blend line that are being discontinued . It is still available ($180 for 1.7 oz, $450 for 8.3 oz) from the top department stores.
Photo by Richard Avedon for a Harper's Bazaar fashion spread titled Ultra Violet, 1958.
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Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream
It's not always a question of price, gold packaging and a formula made of Martian minerals and unicorn tears. Independent studies and my own forehead have shown that the $22 No. 7 serum from Target is an extremely effective wrinkle correction substance (these studies say nothing about battle scars you get when fighting other shoppers over the last bottle on the shelf). But when it comes to face creams and moisturizers with anti-aging properties, the more research and advanced technology that goes in the product, the better it can be. While this means a hefty price tag, it's usually worth it.
I've been using Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream for the last couple of months. I don't have any serious wrinkles (and we all know that there's only so much a face cream can do once they actually set in), but I can confirm a case of a very happy skin. The Cellular Performance cream does an excellent work on the nourishing front. My skin looks and feels plump and very smooth. A few days of use revealed an extra radiance, and no matter what- it seems to retain a high level of moisture, which is probably half the secret of the Kanebo Sensai products I've encountered so far.
I've been using the Cellular Performance cream alternately with my Holy Grail, Lancome Secret de Vie. The Kanebo Sensai product is thicker and takes a little longer to absorb, so I prefer it at night. When I wake up in the morning there's a visible difference in the liveliness of my skin. My husband, of course, has no idea what I'm talking about.
Bottom line: I wouldn't expect miracles, but it works very well.
Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream ($240, 40 ml) is available from Bergdorf Goodman. I was provided with a press sample by the company.
Image: sensai-cosmetics.com
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Labels: anti-aging, Kanebo Sensai, moisturizer, skin care
Paul & Joe Eye Color (Russian 19)


Paul & Joe Eye Color in Russian (no. 19) is my current favorite. It's quite similar to Laura Mercier's Satinée Crème Eye Colour in Teal Cashmere, both in color, ease of blending and the ability to build the color. It has the advantage of being a pressed powder, which is quicker to get right (at least if you're me).
There's a great overview of Paul & Joe's makeup line over at The Beauty Look Book. We seem to be on a similar wave length, shopping-wise, which is a lot of fun. Lina usually covers the light and nude colors while I go for the dark ones. So stay tuned for some more Paul & Joe fun on both our blogs.
Paul & Joe Eye Color single eye shadow ($20) is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Beauty Habit and dermstore.com, which is where I purchased mine.
Photos by me.
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1:00 PM
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Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Yves Saint Laurent- Parisienne
I've done my duty, though, and tried it again and again. Eventually, I got used to that plastic feel- they call it a vinyl accord, I call it a cover-up for cheap raw materials. But I have to admit that a rose that doesn't turn sour on me is a welcome change, and the berry notes aren't half bad. They are sunny and cheerful, something I actually enjoyed here and there as a guilty pleasure when the weather started getting cold. Parisienne has a youthful feel without insulting one's intelligence or good taste. And it makes me think of wearing a poodle skirt, so it can't be all that bad.
Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne ($39 for 1 oz, $65 for 1.6 oz EDP) is available from Sephora and most department stores. I got a couple of samples with various online purchases.
Image: www.suzi.se/blog
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The Moving Chronicles- Part 2
One of my biggest vices is bath products. Long before I had beauty blogging as an excuse, the area around my bathtub looked like a mini Sephora. You can imagine what happened since. So now I'm on a mission to use as much as possible of the bottles I have out, not to touch any samples of bath products I have around and to try and finish at least one shampoo bottle and one shower gel before moving day. We'll see how it goes.
Then there's skin care. Moving is stressful enough, so the last thing I need is a case of skin freakout. So no testing of new creams, cleansers and serums until I'm settled in my new bathroom and beauty closet. All the samples I currently have waiting are going to be packed first and unpacked last, to ward off temptation. And as for the current products in my rotation, I'm going to check if I have travel size and samples of the same things, so I can put away as many pots and jars as possible. If nothing, it'd make me feel more accomplished and productive.
If you have any bathroom packing advice, please share in the comments.
Photo: Janet Leigh in Psycho (1960). Found on the Daily Mail website.
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Le Metier de Beaute Nail Lacquers (Recherche Red)


One of the best things about Le Metier de Beaute nail polish (other than the depth of their pigments, the shine and overall quality, that is) is the size. The bottles are very small and you're less likely to get stuck with a million barely-touched polish bottles. Let's face it: as much as I love many of Chanel's limited edition colors, one bottle of each is a lifetime supply for those of us who constantly change their polish colors.
Le Metier de Beaute Nail Lacquers ($15) are available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The Le Metier de Beaute counter at my local Neiman in the Garden State Plaza is fairly new- only opened a couple of months ago, and the service is impeccable.
All photos are mine.
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Guerlain Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder- Blonde




I was chatting with the SA at the Guerlain counter at Saks spending some time at Chanel. It was the day I got new (and much lighter) foundation and concealer, which was all the face paint I had on at that point (and some basic eye makeup). The SA commented that I could use some color on my cheeks. She looked at me carefully and reached for Terracotta Light bronzer. In Blonde.
And it worked. Blonde or not, this was the perfect color to bring out some natural looking warmth without going into orange territory. You can see the colors side by side- Blonde is not all that light, after all.
The SA didn't use the regular Terracotta bronzing brush. Instead, she applied the powder with a foundation brush like the one you see here. I've been trying it, but I think I still prefer the fluffy round brushes.
Guerlain Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder ($50) is available from Sephora and most department stores. I bought it at Saks NYC.
All photos are mine.
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Monday, November 16, 2009
Chanel No. 5
Ask a random stranger on the street to name a perfume, chances are he or she would say Chanel No. 5. Let someone who has absolutely no interest in fragrance and doesn't wear any to sniff a No. 5 test strip and the person would most likely either recognize it by name or tell you which one of his or her acquaintances wears it. It seems to have always been part of our perfume skyline, beautiful and unmistakable.
Chanel No. 5 is very much an Art Deco perfume. From the use of the then-modern synthetic aldehydes over a classic and opulent rose-jasmine heart, to the elegant and statuesque overall construction. Just think of the Chrysler Building (built a few years after the 1921 launch of Chanel No. 5.
I have several bottles of the assorted formulations and strengths from various vintages spanning the last 25 years. The parfum extrait is the most recent, dating from around 3-4 years ago. While each concentration is an almost entirely different perfume in the way certain facets were treated, they are all still easy to identify as No. 5, no matter if it's sharper, more floral or sporting a very determined sandalwood-vanilla base. Since my No. 5 stash is a bit random and was collected as the bottles crossed my path, mostly from antique stores*, each one has its own attributes.
They all start with that familiar burst of aldehyde notes, the one we are trained to recognize simply as "perfume" and often also as "soap", probably because so many soaps- high end and generic- have been made to resemble this scent over the decades (at least until the idea that it's acceptable to smell like blackberries or a melon took over the world by a terrible storm). Then there's that abstract floral body, which by itself shaped the idea of a floral perfume for generations- Madamoiselle Chanel wanted her first perfume to smell man-made, like a couture gown, not like something that grows in the garden. It's the idea of a flower as depicted in an interpretative artwork.
When it comes to the drydown, some are woodier than others. I tend to favor the sweeter, more vanillic versions. I have half a bottle of the EDP from the late 80s which seems to suit me best on most days, but that's more a skin chemistry thing than a quality assessment. They are all beautiful, but I'm not really a floral-aldehyde fiend and the whole concept doesn't go with my personal style. It's more about a mood. Sometimes I like to play the part- wearing all black, minimal accessories and a vintage piece of jewelry. That's when No. 5 fits best.
Chanel (the fragrance house) has put in a lot of effort to protect their crown jewel over the years and maintain its integrity. I have yet to come across an (authentic) Chanel No. 5 that smells wrong or cheap. Changes and reformulations were made throughout the years, most notably when nitro-musks had to be replaced because of serious toxicity issues. The raw materials are also different between the formulations- only the parfum extrait today is made with Grasse jasmine. The EDT uses Egyptian-grown flowers. However, it seems that the draconian regulation imposed on the industry by IFRA are putting No. 5 in danger. While the concentration of the natural raw materials in the EDT is most likely below the specified level, it is unclear what will happen to the parfum. Chanel isn't very forthcoming with information (as far as I know they wouldn't even admit any changes were made since 1921), which has many perfume lovers worried.
My personal opinion is that if anyone can be the force who would bring back some sanity to the industry it is the house of Chanel. Having an iconic, national treasure status in France, Chanel No.5 must be worth defending and lobbying. It is remained to be seen if this would actually happen (don't hold your breath. There are other factors at play here).
*Chanel No. 5 in EDT and usually also EDP is available in several sizes from most half-decent department stores. The parfum can be found at Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf and their like, and if you're lucky enough to live in Paris, also on the shelves of Sephora and many other perfumeries. One place to avoid is eBay. Chanel perfumes are extremely popular with counterfeiters, thieves and loathsome individuals who refill empty bottles with who knows what and sell it as vintage. Don't. Seriously.
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The Moving Chronicles- Part 1
Realizing closing is only a few days away, I took a good look at our possessions. We're pretty practical when it comes to furniture. Life with cats forces you into a certain frame of mind. You can't get too emotionally attached to your couch and the only ones arranging things on horizontal surfaces are the felines. As a result, we're not big into knickknacks and haven't owned any breakable decor items since a certain orange tabby disposed of the last vase.
What we have are books. Their number has tripled since we've moved here.
Kitchen equipment. The small collection of vintage enameled cast iron pans circa 1960 isn't going to endear me to the movers.
The beauty closet, which is no longer a closet, as the content has somehow spread throughout the house. Beauty bloggers are a bit insane.
The perfume collection. I've gotten a few sweet emails offering advice about packing it right, protecting The Precious and not taking my eyes off certain irreplaceable items.
And nine cats.
Oy.
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Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX
Smooch from Benefit Cosmetics was a weird little thing: a thin, watery, non-balmy lip treatment that performed miracles on chapped lips. I've gone through many tubes of this white runny substance and stocked up when realized it was being discontinued. But my stash has been running low and I started looking earnestly for a good alternative. While I haven't found an exact match, Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX is the closest I've gotten so far.
Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX is considerably greasier than Smooch, but still thin and not sticky (at all). It comforts and heals distressed lips, adding a light shiny coat that transforms a miserable look into a happy, healthy one. It also makes pretty but too dry lipsticks much more comfortable to wear, which saved several tubes in my collection from a back of the closet oblivion.
Maquillage is a mass market brand by Shiseido which, unfortunately, is only sold in Asia. The internet is a beautiful, beautiful thing and allows us to buy good stuff not available in our stores. Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX (around $30) is available from various websites specializing in Japanese cosmetics. Google, as always, is our friend.
Photo by me.
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Labels: lip balm, lip treatment, Maquillage, Shiseido
Trish McEvoy Essential Pencil (Plum Brown)


Plum Brown (number 10) is a perfect mauve, it has a somewhat brown base that makes look like a great autumn color. It goes well with my favorite Edward Bess lip gloss (Nude Satin) or with Givency Gloss Interdit in Rose Taboo, creating a polished and elegant look.
The staying power of the Essential Pencil is great. Some pigment survives a cup of tea, though I'd recommend doing some touch ups to restore the look back to perfection.
Trish McEvoy Essential Pencil ($22) is available from most decent department stores. I bought mine at Bergdorf Goodman.
All photos are mine.
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Labels: lip crayon, makeup, Trish McEvoy
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Serge Lutens- Un Bois Sepia
Now, as far as I understand, Un Bois Sepia was reformulated approximately two years ago. I think it used to be darker and might have had a touch of moss somewhere in its green structure. I have a travel size atomizer (15 ml?) which I got at Bergdorf Goodman with my full bottle of Bois et Fruits a couple of years ago. This is the newer juice which feels a bit weak and has a more generic green opening.
The top notes make Un Bois Sepia appear like a somewhat classic male cologne. Something green, sheer vetiver, wood and just a little dirt, which on a bad day doesn't agree with my skin. It's the patchouli, I think, which is different than the rich chocolaty patch of Borneo. This one is not as complex and reminds me of the patchouli used in several mainstream fragrances such as Prada (the original women's version) and even Calvin Klein Euphoria without all the icky synthetic fruit. Un Bois Sepia is better, however, and on a good skin chemistry day it actually dries down to a very pleasant dry wood scent. Generally speaking, it usually smells better on my husband and I like it best as something that remains on my scarves or jackets. Still, it's easy enough to wear in a non-nonsense kind of way, even if I don't think it's quite worth the $200 price tag.
*As a Serge Lutens non-export, Un Bois Sepia was originally only available in a bell jar from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (they sell online and ship in Europe). A couple of years ago, Uncle Serge began releasing some of the non-exports (Bois Violette, Bois et Fruits, Santal de Mysore and Un Bois Sepia) in the regular rectangular atomizer- first, exclusively at Bergdorf in NYC, later adding a few more doors, such as Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A., Aedes in NYC and Beauty Habit. The price of those bottles is $200. Don't confuse the limited edition/distribution of the above with the yearly release of one non-export in a regular bottle (with a black label, $140) that usually makes its first appearance at Barneys. This year we were graced with MKK, last year it was Borneo and the year before (if I'm not mistaken)- Fumerie Turque. Then there are Chergui and Chene which seem to have been added to the export line permanently (the latter has also been obviously reformulated in the last year or so).
Samples of Un Bois Sepia (and the rest of the Serge Lutens, export and not) are available from The Perfumed Court. The Posh Peasant also offers most of the line, but currently not this particular one.
Art: Tree O by Robert Cook
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Labels: fragrance, perfume, Serge Lutens
Friday, November 13, 2009
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Ferme tes Yeux- JAR
"Close your eyes", Buffy* said to Angel the vampire, her lover, as she kissed him and stuck the sword in his gut and sent him to the hell dimension through the opened portal. Two years before she told him, "When you kiss me I want to die". But that was not her time. Yet.
I asked The Blond what he thinks about when he smells the opening notes of Ferme tes Yeux. His answer: "a wedding in hell". And he means it in the best possible way. It's funny, actually, since the one scent I remember from our wedding is the stargazer lilies from my bouquet. Their scent, blooming in the heat and humidity completely drowned the Panthere de Cartier I wore that night. The deathly part in Ferme tes Yeux is right there at the top, where the decay and animalic notes come jumping at you.
I was quite horrified the first time I smelled Ferme, three years ago in the dark and mysterious JAR alcove at Bergdorf Goodman. It's the last thing you'd expect to smell at this posh 5th Avenue location. The Undead, rot and carnal desires don't exactly belong among the Prada accessories and definitely not where JAR is hidden- right behind the Caron urns and Annick Goutal perfumes. But here I am, three years later, the proud owner of a bottle, one of my top ten scents of all times (for now) which I feel is so very personal to me (probably because only a dozen of people or so are insane enough to wear this thing in public).
So what's in there? The closest approximation to real civet money can buy, most likely, and Mr. Rosenthal, the perfume creator (Joel Arthur Rosenthal= JAR) didn't save it for the drydown. It's as in your face as can be from the very begining. Then there are the flowers. Big, lush, just past their prime (it's a favorite JAR theme, also explored in the magnificent Jardenia). I swear I can smell the lilies from my wedding, some ultra-indolic jasmine and something creamy, but probably not tuberose or gardenia. Maybe ylang-ylang on all its aphrodisiac qualities.
Then there's something spicy- clove or carnation, making the perfume smell like the deranged evil twin of the sparkling Diamond Water. Think of Helena Bonham-Carter as Bellatrix Lestrange just out of Azkaban. What would she smell like?
Things mellow down considerably in the drydown. A berry-like musk takes over, very velvety. If CB Musk and Uncle Serge's Muscs Kublai Khan had fornicated and spawned, the result would have been the sweet drydown of Ferme tes Yeux.
It's magnificent.
For more information and reviews of JAR and his creations, please see my older posts:
1. In which my scent twin and I visit JAR at Bergdorf.
2. A review of Diamond Water. Bring your own tiara.
3. The n00b point of view- my first encounter with JAR perfumes.
*Vampire Slayer, not my fat white cat.
For the Buffy geeks (recommended to switch into HD mode):
Photograph by Norman Parkinson.
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A Quick Shopping Tip- Neiman Marcus vs. Bergdorf
Now, Bergdorf and Neiman Marcus share not just the user interface but basically the entire site. As far as I could tell, the 40% sale is the same at both online stores, so I switched to Neiman, found the blouse- same sale price and used the current free shipping Coupon, SHOPNM.
So, if you're planning to indulge, do it at Neiman.
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3:04 PM
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Labels: Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, online shopping, sale
Laura Mercier Shimmer Lip Colour Lipstick (Violet)



Shimmer Lip Colour has an acceptable staying power (some pigment remains after a cup of tea), excellent coverage and is very comfortable to wear, leaving the lips feeling soft even after it's long gone. I liked many of the colors I saw and chose Violet, a medium mauve. While the Laura Mercier website describes Violet as a cool mauve, I actually think it has some red undertone, at least against my skin.
Bottom line: A crowd pleaser.
Laura Mercier Shimmer Lip Colour Lipstick ($22)is available from most department stores, Sephora and lauramercier.com. I bought mine at Bergdorf Goodman.
All photos by me.
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11:19 AM
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Labels: Laura Mercier, lipstick, makeup
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Hermès-Elixir des Merveilles
Then there are the store-bought chocolate-dipped candied citrus peels, which are a quick and efficient way to my heart. La Maison du Chocolat has some really good ones, but I'm always willing to settle when Whole Foods' choclaterie offers them. The closest perfume version of this treat that I've found so far is Hermès Elixir des Merveilles.
The Merveilles series actually has three different perfumes. The original, Eau des Merveilles, is an eau de toilette, and is quite famous for its salty ambergris accord. It's a beautiful scent, worthy of its own review, but it does not satisfy a sweet tooth on a day one wants to smell edible. The parfum version, Parfum des Merveilles, is a darker, woodier version of the EDT. The subject of this review is the EDP, Elixir des Merveilles, which is technically a flanker. Composed by Jean-Claude Ellena (the other Merveilles were created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer), though not very Ellenistic in concept (chocolate? caramel? by the Overlord of transparent minimalism?), Elixir des Merveilles is a grownup gourmand, one that doesn't insult one's idea of tastefulness while still allowing you climbing into bed smelling yummy.
I've found several lists of possible notes that don't always agree with each other. There's no doubt we're dealing with a candied orange, cocoa or chocolate, creamy sandalwood and a patchouli-vetiver mix in the drydown that on the wrong day can smell a bit masculine, but I don't really mind. Then again, I own a bottle of Elena's Terre d'Hermes, the manly interpretation of the orange-wood theme, which I find to be invigorating and energizing.
While the chocolate-orange combination calls to mind winter holidays, celebratory liqueurs and truffle gift boxes, I actually like wearing it in warmer weather. I find that balmy days bring out more depth out of the Elixir, while it can be a bit flat on a cold day. Still, I know most people would rather avoid chocolate perfumes in summer and would enjoy it much better this season.
Elixir des Merveilles and its other relatives are available from Hermes boutiques and some department stores. The retail price for the 1.7 oz bottle is $100, but one look online would show you that it can easily be found under $40. Hermès website also offers a 13.3 oz (not a typo) bottle for $440. My husband called this bottle The Mouthwash, and frankly, it makes me wonder about the real cost of the juice inside and the enormous markup brought by the Hermès name.
Photo: browniepointsblog.com
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Courtney Cox At The TV Guide Hot List Party
But here's Cortney Cox, a very beautiful woman whose face are becoming marble-like and not in a good way, but her eyelids seem to be heading south. She's only 45 and I know it's most likely a genetic thing, so when is it time to change course and go for the hardcore scalpel?
Photo: A Socialite's Life
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Kat Von D Rock'n'Roll Eyeshadow Palette





This might or might not explain why piercing and tattoos are so out of my personal comfort zone that I can't look at Kat Von D without cringing. I guess I'm not her target audience and never gave the makeup line a second thought until I accumulated too many points and had to redeem them for something, and the Rock'n'Roll Palette looked decent enough. Which it is, just not really good.
The colors are fine. I wasn't sure about the lavender purple one, but as you can see in the swatches, it's not quite s bright as in the pan. Still, not really my color and doesn't look very healthy against my skin, but that's what you get when you're clearly related to Martians. The two light colors- a shimmery white and a shimmery peach are actually super sheer. I had to pile on five coats to be able to take a picture. The other problem with them is glitter fallout. In the palette they both look more pearly than glittery, but once you apply the eye shadows, there's a lot of glitter landing on your cheeks, and that's over a primer. When swatching I only used a light lotion underneath and had to do some cleanup before I could take a clear picture. The dark glittery charcoal, on the other hand, has a lot less glitter than you'd expect from looking at the palette. It would have made a nice liner if it weren't so crumbly.
I'm spoiled, I admit. The products in my regular rotation, from Armani to Edward Bess, have taught me to expect gorgeous shades and superb quality. Kat Von D's below average color payoff and questionable texture are just not my idea of excellence in makeup. I understand that her prices are very attractive: the current eye shadow palettes in the regular line offer 8 colors for $34 (Dior Palettes run between $42 to $58), but even in the Kat Von D price range you can do better- Cargo palettes are great and priced at $32 and Urban Decay has several options between $30-38.
Bottom line: Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.
Photos of the palette and swatches by me, Kat Von D from hollyscoop.com.
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Labels: eye shadow, gift with purchase, Kat Von D, makeup, palettes, Sephora
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente (Les Orientalistes)
I'm not really sure why it feels this way. After all, this is a much softer myrrh than the Mediterranean shrubbery of Diptyque L’Eau Trois, a scent I love and wear, and is the myrrhiest one I can think of. Myrrhe Ardent is sweet, resinous and has enough vanilla in the drydown to take the edge off the classic combination of myrrh and frankincense. It shouldn't remind anyone of religious rituals. Actually, It's so unique it doesn't remind me of anything in particular- I just enjoy the ride.
As others (like Kevin on Now Smell This) have observed, Myrrhe Ardente and the rest of the Les Orientalistes play well with each other and layer beautifully with other scents. I'll have to try his suggestion for layering it with Uncle Serge's Miel de Bois, and would also experiment with Un Bois Vanille (basically, almost anything layers well with UBV, and it wouldn't be the first Goutal do so- try it with Eau d'Hadrien). I like trying different ratios of Myrrhe Ardente and Ambre Fetiche. I tend to go overboard with the amber, but that's just how I roll. If you have more layering ideas, please share them.
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Labels: Annick Goutal, fragrance, perfume
Fill In The Blank
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Labels: atrocities, Celebrities, Pamela Anderson, perfume
Giorgio Armani Armanisilk Lipstick (No. 92)




Armanisilk no. 92 is a mauve with a brown base, but not scary brown. It's quite neutral and plays well with many other colors. I like using it under various glosses that add moisture and shine and adjust the color to my needs. While I have to reapply the lip gloss as usual, the lipstick color underneath stays put for hours.
Bottom line: Probably my favorite lipstick in the long lasting category.
I bought my Armanisilk lipstick ($25) at my local Saks. It's also available from Barneys and giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com, just be aware the online swatches there are not very reliable, so test in person.
All photos by me.
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Mona di Orio- Nuit Noire
The opening is somewhat awkward, like an introduction before the ice breaks and the conversation flows. It's the spices, I think. Ginger can sometimes be a difficult top note, and Nuit Noire is no exception. If you try it, don't bother with a paper test strip. It wouldn't do the perfume or your nostrils any justice. Instead, take a deep breath, put it on skin and wait for the magic. As soon as the raw animalic notes find their place and their groove, they start enhancing the traditional white flowers and making them perform. It's not delicate and not gentle. These flowers were drawn by Georgia O'Keeffe and have one thing in mind. By the end of the night, someone is getting naked.
Nuit Noire dries down to a sweet musk, somewhat powdery with delicate sweetness. It sits beautifully on the skin, like exquisitely-made lingerie, the kind you buy at a small and exclusive Paris boutique, not from a catalog. It doesn't get any better than this.
Nuit Noire, like the rest of Mona di Orio's perfumes is currently only available from
Les Senteurs in London (they ship worldwide). I bought my bottle when it was still available from Bergdorf Goodman, and it looks like Mona di Orio is coming back to NYC, to Takashimaya this time. Samples and decants can be purchased from The Perfumed Court.
Art: Collar de Perlas by Fabian Perez
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12:51 AM
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Labels: fragrance, Mona di Orio, perfume
Monday, November 09, 2009
Guerlain Le Rouge G Lipstick (Gracia 66)



While the lipstick itself is a standard size, the double mirror flip top case is heavy- 91g or 3.125 oz. I weighed it on my kitchen scale. It's not refillable so the case cannot be recycled, which is a huge waste. Then there's the marketing hype about the formula with its crushed ruby powder. Do we even want to have makeup that contains crushed gemstones? And put it on our lips? I looked at the ingredient list, which wasn't an easy thing to do, as it's printed in super dark gray fonts on the black background. You have to hold the box a certain way against the light to be able to read it. Synthetic ruby powder is somewhere in the middle, right after perfume and before myrrh extract, so I'm guessing it's not that significant. So why is it even there? It's not like Rouge G is shinier than any lipstick ever made. It's pretty, shiny and looks right there with other great lipsticks from Chanel, Armani, Chantecaille and other excellent brands.
Since it's obvious we're paying more for the packaging than for the actual lipstick, it reminds me too much of Guerlain's instant-lux perfumes. Things like the $9000 bottle of Mon Precious Nectar or the $420 sugar fest of Le Secrets de Sophie. It makes you wonder, and not in a good way.
Add to that the attitude I was given at the Bergdorf Guerlain counter. I was asking about the formula, the difference between Le Rouge G and Kiss Kiss Maxi Shine and wanted some more info. All the SA had to say was "it's made with real rubies". Why, thank you. Since they were out of No. 66, I was happy to go and give my business to Saks. Not that it helps with my Guerlain annoyance, but at least the commission went to someone who would actually smile at me.
Bottom line: The lipstick is great, LVMH is still evil.
Guerlain Le Rouge G lipstick ($45) is available from most decent department stores. I bought mine at Saks in NYC.
All photos are mine.
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Sunday, November 08, 2009
Love, Loss & What I wore

The play, an adaptation of Ilene' Beckerman's book by Nora and Delia Ephron, has five women tell stories and share memories of their lives, their clothes and accessories. It's often hilarious, sometimes heartbreaking and always spot-on. The description of what we tend to carry in our purses, comments our mothers make throughout our lives, shoes, men and what it means when one starts wearing Eileen Fisher.
The cast is great and Tyne Daly is amazing. Her presence lights up the stage and her delivery creates some of the best moments.
Love, Loss & What I wore plays at The Westside Theatre now through March 2010, the cast changes every month or so.
Images: Playbill.com
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Labels: theater
Friday, November 06, 2009
Bare Escentuals Buxom Lash Mascara

I wasn't expecting much. I'm not a fan of mineral foundation and wasn't impressed with what the Bare Escentuals makeup artists have done to my face on a couple of occasions. But since the brush looked interesting enough I was happy to try.I'm glad I did. Buxom Lash, an $18 product, performs better than many mascaras twice its price. It's probably not so much the formula as it is the brush that separates the lashes and applies an even coat from base to tip, adding body and length without any of the pitfalls of the false lashes look.
Buxom Lash Mascara performs wonderfully- no smearing, smudging, dotting, clumping, cooning or flaking. It stays perfect from morning to night and is easy to remove with all the usual suspects.
Bottom line: Big love.
Bare Escentuals Buxom Lash Mascara ($18) is available from Sephora, in store and online and several department stores. I got the travel size as a GWP.
Photos by me.
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Gaia, the non-blonde
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11:24 AM
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Labels: Bare Escentuals, makeup, mascara
Thursday, November 05, 2009
Femme de Rochas (1989 Version)


The 1944 version was created by the great Edmond Roudnitska for the fashion house of Marcel Rochas. The bottles of the original formula are the ones in a lace print box, bearing the designer's name. After Marcel Rochas 1955 death (it's interesting and sad to note that Patou, Fath and Rochas died quite young) the boxes were printed with the house's name, Rochas, dropping the first name. Research and brief sniffing show that the 1989 reformulation (by Olivier Cresp) was done with full respect to the original masterpiece and is close enough. I have a few bottles of parfum and EDP from various years, all are quite beautiful.
The 1989 might have a little less of that chypre feeling of yore, but it's still quite dramatic. The cumin at the top can be a bit shocking, but for once, I don't get that infamous BO accord from this spice. Even my husband, a known cumin-hater who still finds it hard to forgive Uncle Serge for the chicken tikka masala of Serge Noire, has never complained about Femme. Then again, I try not to stand next to him for those first five minutes.
Other than cumin, Femme is rich in ripe fruit- peach and plum- and dries down with a bang of beautiful sandalwood. It smells expensive, elegant and oh-so-sexy. Despite the obvious roots in the fruity chypre world, it is not a simple case of Mitsouko with cumin. There's something about it that feels more feminine (just call me Ms. D'oh von Obvoious), less formal. You could say that the 50s femme fatale has freed herself from some of the restraining undergarment, while still keeping the best pieces of her lingerie collection.

There are differences, of course, between the bottles. The parfum seem to have less cumin at the top, some bottles smell sweeter than others. They all smell great and are a joy to wear.
Femme is still made and can be bought in an EDT concentration at discount stores. I've tried to sniff the most current version with no success- the testers I came across at a couple of those weird outlet stores were not new and the sales person said they've been there for a very long time. Considering that the Rochas perfume license is now owned by Proctor & Gamble, famous for butchering the Patou line and making toothpaste, I have very little hope that any new juice has maintained the quality, but I may be utterly wrong.
Images-
Femme perfume ad: CouleurParfum.com
Actress Ann Sheridan in 1944: myvintagevogue.com
Marcel Rochas in his studio, 1951: Life.com
Rene Gruau fashion illustration for Marcel Rochas: myvintagevogue.com
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Gaia, the non-blonde
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11:48 PM
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Labels: fragrance, Marcel Rochas, perfume, vintage perfume
Orange Bronzer Is Out. Good Riddance.




Photos: Just Jared
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5:21 PM
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Labels: Celebrities, Charlize Theron, Kate Beckinsale, makeup, Miranda Kerr, Thandie Newton
DuWop Private Red Lipstick

Private Red is amazingly long lasting. There's still a lot of pigment left after dinner, even if the shiny coat fades with the courses. It doesn't bleed or migrate to the teeth, but all the usual steps of exfoliating and using a liner are still necessary. Red lipsticks are gorgeous, but they require meticulous application. I also recommend using a liquid concealer or highligher around the lips (on the outside) and blend it carefully into your foundation. It helps create that flawless look.
DuWop Private Red ($22) is sometimes available from Sephora, but they tend to sell out as quickly as the store (online and offline) gets them. You can also purchase directly from DuWop (shop.duwop.com) or from other internet stores. I know I bought mine online, but I can't remember where.
Photos by me.
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1:36 PM
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Wednesday, November 04, 2009
Lisa Hoffman Variations- Tuscan Fig
Taking one note or a theme and creating four different mini-fragrances around it for several times of the day: morning, day, evening and bed time, all packed in the same box.
That's the basic idea behind Lisa Hoffman's Variations series, and I chose to get acquainted with it through Tuscan Fig. Fig is one of my favorite notes and I like every aspect of it, so I expected to find all parts of the tree explored here- leaves, wood and fruit. However, Tuscan Fig is mostly about the sweetness of the ripe fruit and some softening elements. The tree itself is mostly absent.
Marina of Perfume Smellin' Things actually prefers it this way , but then again, she's not a fan of Philosykos or Premier Figuier, two of my favorite fig scents. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy this light approach and started wearing somewhere in August on some of the muggiest days, but Tuscan Fig is a bit too light and civilized to make the kind of statement I favor.
The official notes are Fig, French jasmine, honeysuckle, vanilla bean, gardenia, amber, wood and musks. I could swear there's some citrus in the Morning variation- it's super light, airy and quite fleeting. I guess it would make a great treadmill scent and won't stink up the gym. The next three get sweeter as the day progresses, with a very powdery accord in the Bedtime scent and a very edible and sensual vanilla in the Evening one (my favorite of the four).
Like the other Variations, Tuscan Fig is a perfume oil in four roll-on vials. I like oils and their dense feel, and don't mind the minimal sillage because it's usually compensated by a very good staying power. That's not the case in this Lisa Hoffman creation, which on my skin is gone within 3 hours or so. The portable vials in their cute case make it easy to reapply, but I'd still prefer it to last longer.
Lisa Hoffman Variations comes in both a kit with a leather case($95) or a refill set of all four vials (5 ml each) in a simple box ($60). I bought the latter. Tuscan Fig and the other scents are available from lisahoffmanskincare.com.
Photo: whatsforlunchhoney.blogspot.com
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11:52 PM
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Labels: fragrance, Lisa Hoffman, perfume
Dior HydrAction Deep Hydration Radical Serum
I've been hoarding sample packets of Dior HydrAction Deep Hydration Radical Serum, waiting for the right time to test them. The time came this week, as I've been fighting a cold and trying to keep my skin from showing it. My regular Stapels (Erno Laszlo and Lancome Secret de Vie) definitely helped protecting my skin from chaffing and flaking. But I was determined to do more than that. I wanted my skin to remain plump and pretty, even if my brain was threatening to liquefy itself and escape through my nose.
Dior HydrAction Deep Hydration Serum feels like miracle food on the skin. It's thick, serumy but not greasy at all. I applied a full sample at a time (including neck and cleavage, for good measures), and every last drop sank in and did the job so well I could actually see immediate results.
I'm down to my last sample of the serum, so a trip to the nearest Dior counter is in my immediate future).
Dior HydrAction Deep Hydration Radical Serum ($70) is available from most decent department stores and Sephora. I had samples from my local Saks and Bloomingdale's.
Photo: pyrobrainiac.com
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1:35 PM
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Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer, Adjust (Green)


A few weeks ago I picked a bottle of the green Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer at Sephora, after testing it on my husband's hand. His skin has quite a bit of redness and even he was impressed with the way this green stuff evened it out.
Used on one's face it performes just like Smashbox regular Photo Finish Primer- it smooths, fills and creates a silky canvas that allows for perfect foundation application and helps the makeup stay in place from morning till night. It prevents bleeding, migrating, sinking into pores and the general melty face one might experience in less than ideal weather.
The green Color Correcting primer balances out low-to-moderate redness and allows you to use much less foundation and concealer to cover up, which is always a good thing. I doubt it would make much difference in serious cases of scarring or blemishes, but when your skin requires a subtle attitude adjustment, this Smashbox primer is excellent.
Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer ($38) is available from Beauty.com and Sephora. I bought it in store.
Photos by me.
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Gaia, the non-blonde
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12:54 PM
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Tuesday, November 03, 2009
Rose Perfumes For Anti-Rose People
1. Un Rose Chypree- Tauer
Probably my favorite 2009 release. From my original review: "Andy Tauer has taken one of the classic structures, the chypre (an accord built on a base of oakmoss and labdanum and topped with bergamot), and gave it a new life. Chypre lovers will be thrilled to find their old, elegant acquaintance here. But it's also a modern perfume that feels very much alive, young without being juvenile, and hopelessly romantic".
2. Tai'f- Ormonde Jayne
A sunny, fruit-and-honey rose. It's uplifting and very feminine, blooms in the heat of summer and warms the heart in winter.
3. Frankincense Myrrh Rose Maroc- Regina Harris
A dark, mysterious rose. Gothic in the medieval sense of the word, not the black-wearing, Morissey-worshipping ancestors of the emo kids. Black eye makeup not required. High heels and red Chanel lipstick would be more appropriate.
4. Roses et Chocolat- Ayala Moriel
I can't believe there aren't more perfumes based on this brilliant concept- roses and chocolate, a beautiful, sumptuous gourmand scent that smells like truffles and love. An all-natural perfume.
5. Le Maroc Pour Elle- Tauer
Rose and jasmine that smell nothing like Patou's Joy. Instead of the quintessential Parisienne perfume, Le Maroc belly dances the line between an oriental and a gourmand, at times evoking the Sultan's garden, other times- his kitchen where plates of Turkish delight and orange blossom pudding are being prepared. Very rewarding for the brave of heart.
6. Amouage Lyric for women
A black tie perfume. Formal and as elegant as it gets. Write your acceptance speech and wear a tiara.
7. Bois de Paradis- Parfums DelRae
A jammy rose with an amber-wood drydown. Smells quite different on men than on women, always pleasurable and the body cream is to die for.
Photo: Miroslav Hild, A Rose behind the Window, 1960
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Gaia, the non-blonde
at
9:31 PM
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Celebrity Snacks

And am I the only one who finds that chicken photo a bit too much?
Photos: I'm Not Obsessed and The Daily Mail
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5:47 PM
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Labels: Celebrities, Elizabeth Hurley, marketing
Kanebo Sensai Eye Shadow Palette (ES02 Kaede Momiji)



There's nothing new or revolutionary here, just very wearable in a subtle, classy way. It's a go-to palette for a well put-together everyday look that can be lightened down or intensified, according to need. I usually skip the warmest color in the palette because it's too orange for my skin tone, but the other ones are very flattering.
Like every Kanebo Sensai product I've tried to far, the quality is the highest possible. The eye shadows are finely milled, the texture silky, smooth and blendable, and the staying power is very impressive. I use it over a primer and my eye makeup survives from day to night with no touchups, even after a short walk in the rain.
Kanebo Sensai Eye Shadow Palette ($50) is available from Bergdorf Goodman. Mine was provided by the brand's PR.
All photos by me.
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Gaia, the non-blonde
at
2:43 PM
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Labels: eye shadow, Kanebo Sensai, makeup, palettes
Monday, November 02, 2009
Cuir d'Iris -Parfumerie Generale Private Collection
Cuir d'Iris is neither a masculine scent nor feminine. It's just... is. Waiting to be worn and merged with one's own skin, offering a touch of woody incense, dry but not rigid or austere. It's more romantic than sensual, in my opinion, and would make a great shared scent. There's a powdery amber undertone that keeps things warm and inviting, and why I suspect it'd be a good starting point for those who are usually afraid of the whips and dungeons and wild animals hidden in many leather scents.
Cuir d'Iris ($135 for 50 ml) is part of Parfumerie Generale's Private Collection. It's available from Luckyscent/Scent Bar in Los Angeles, but cannot be purchased online- only by phone or email. If you go to Parfumerie Generale's website you'd need a user name and password to access the Private Collection area (seriously. A password. Uncle Serge is kicking himself for not thinking of it first). Samples and decants are available from the Perfumed Court, which is where I order my fix.
Photo of Rudolph Valentino and wife Natasha Rambova from Ana_Lee on LiveJournal.
Posted by
Gaia, the non-blonde
at
10:12 PM
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Labels: fragrance, Parfumerie Generale, perfume
Fashion Quote Of The Day

Or: Why I love Dita Von Teese. Dita on Halloween:
“I like to be some kind of LA girl, full disguise with tan, jeans, etc. This year I was going full Ed Hardy girl… But it’s too scary!”Photo of Dita Von Teese in her going to thegym attire: Faded Youth Blog
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Gaia, the non-blonde
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6:34 PM
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Labels: Dita Von Teese, fashion
Shiseido Maquillage Full Vision Mascara

The issue started a while later with minor flaking and dotting. It wasn't too bad and I was willing to live with that as a 4-hour evening mascara. However, removing it was quite disastrous. my eyes aren't very sensitive and I've never experienced issues with any other mascara, but this Maquillage product just burned. Badly.
I rinsed my eyes with Visine and it was fine after a minute or so. Since I'm insane, I gave it another try, just to make sure the culprit was not my eye makeup remover. The results were the same no matter what I used: Lancome Bi-Facil, Almay pads and Liz Earle cleanser. The other eye makeup items I had on during all the testing were my usual staples- Urban Decay Primer Potion and Bobbi Brown eyeliner and eye shadows.
Half a bottle of Visine later, I've given up on the Full Vision mascara. It's too bad, because I loved the way it held the curl.
Shiseido Maquillage Full Vision Mascara is available from various sites specializing in Japanese and Asian cosmetics. I paid around $38, if I remember correctly.
All photos by me.
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4:46 PM
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Labels: makeup, Maquillage, mascara, Shiseido
Sunday, November 01, 2009
Currently

Americans In Space by Mary E. Mitchell. A novel. A thirty-something mother dealing with early widowhood. So far I really like it, despite the tearjerking subject.
Song
Simon & Garfunkel- A Hazy Shade Of Winter.
Frequently worn outfit/item
A vintage-inspired rain coat in green/black/white, bought last year at Juicy Couture, of all places.
Perfume
Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris
Makeup
Red lipsticks and super pale face.
Food
Cakes from Patisserie Didier Dumas in Nyack. Paris on the Hudson.
Drink
I'm chugging water like a horse.
Guilty pleasure
A pumpkin spice latte at Starbucks. I'm sure it doesn't qualify as coffee, but I like the weirdness. I just wish it weren't so sweet.
Bane of my existence
The kink in my neck- I can't turn my head to the right. It's been an extremely uncomfortable couple of days.
Joy
The extra hour of sleep.
Anticipation
Still all about the new house.
Wish list
Some vintage furniture I've seen in several stores around here. Apparently, I'm a big fan of mid-century Danish design. By the way, does anyone know where I can find that giraffe print from Pete Campbell's (Mad Men) apartment?

Thought
Could the craftsmanship of Ikea furniture be any worse?
Please share your recommendations, banes and joys.
Art by Craig Stephens
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Gaia, the non-blonde
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10:59 PM
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